Archives for BathRoom Sink Faucets category
Posted: Mar 01, 2011 | Category: BathRoom Sink Faucets
In many bathrooms, the tub is the focus of the room, a gratifying symbol of luxury and relaxation. In new installations, whirlpool tubs now available in more traditional tub styles and sizes are in high demand. Put a whirlpool on a platform; wrap windows around it ; let a skylight beam down some sunshine or starlight; mount built-in speakers for soft background music: the tub becomes a destination in its own right. But for on-the-go workday bathing, a separate shower, unless space prohibits, is a nearly universal request.
Tub choices
The market overflows with bathtub styles. The 30- by 60-inch tub, which often controlled the dimensions of the 5- by 7-foot bathroom, no longer rules the buyer. Tubs come in new and more comfortable shapes and sizes and are available in a wide range of colors.
The basic bathtub. The boxy, familiar tub is enameled steel, relatively inexpensive, and lightweight but noisy, cold, and prone to chipping. Built-to-last enameled cast-iron tubs are more durable and warmer tothe touch, but very heavy (they may require structural reinforcement). They’re manufactured in many colors.
Rectangular tubs come in two styles: recessed and corner. Recessed tubs fit between two side walls and against a back wall; they have one finished side. Corner models have one finished side and end and may be right or left-handed. A 72-inch-long model is better than the standard 60 inches, if space allows; a depth of 16 inches or more is more comfortable than the standard 14.
Square tubs are commonly 4 by 3V2 or 4 feet; often they include an integral seating ledge. Square tubs are manufactured for both recessed and corner installation.
The age of plastics. The most innovative tubs these days are usually plastic either vacuum-formed acrylic or injection-molded thermoplastics like ABS. These lightweight shells are easy to transport and retain heat well.
But best of all is their range of contours and sizes. Plastic tubs are available in neutrals and in the latest colors from soft pastels to glossy black. The one drawback: those shiny, elegant-looking surfaces tend to scratch or dull easily.
These tubs are usually designed for platform or sunken installation. Built-in features vary.
Freestanding tubs. An old-fashioned freestanding tub, such as the enduring clawfoot model, makes a nice focal point for a traditional or country design. You can buy new reproductions or a reconditioned original. Such tubs can double as showers with the addition of Victorian-inspired shower-head / diverter / curtain rod hardware.
Looking for traditional fixtures and fittings? Recently, many new sources for renovators’ supplies have sprung up: check specialty shops and antique plumbing catalogs.
Whirlpool tubs. Think of these hydromassage units simply as bathtubs with air jets. Unlike an outdoor spa, the whirlpool uses a standard hot-water connection; once your soak is over, the water is drained.
A motor, pump, and jets are what make the whirlpool go. Jet designs vary: generally, you can opt for high volume and low pressure (a few strong jets) or low pressure and high volume (lots of softer jets). Typically, the more jets, the easier it is to pinpoint an aching body part though some users find these setups less comfortable. The best whirlpools are adjustable for water volume, air-water mixture, and direction.
Looking for extras? Consider adding digital temperature controls, timers, built-in fill spouts, or cushy neck rolls for comfort.
Because of their extra weight, whirlpool tubs may need special floor framing. They may also requirean extra-capacity main water heater or separate in-line heater.
Soaking tubs. Soaking tubs, like Japanese furos (made of wood), have deep interiors. Ideal for small spaces, they come in recessed, platform, and corner models, with rectangular or round interiors of fiberglass or acrylic. Hot tubs, which use a wooden barrel-design and continuous water supply, can present moisture prob-lems in all but the best-ventilated spaces. They are probably best confined to a deck or private garden.
Tub fittings
For tubs and tub/showers, you can use either single or separate controls. Tubs require a spout and drain. Tub/ showers need a spout, shower head , diverter valve, and drain. These may be deck- or wall-mounted, or a combination. The best fittings are made of brass and come in several finishes, including chrome, pewter, gold, and enamel. You’ll also find color-coordinated pop-up drains and overflow plates.
Ever had a tub spout poke you while you were trying to relax? Mount it along the back wall or deck. Position handles where you can get to them easily, such as at the front and slightly to one side. Roman or waterfall spouts are striking-looking and fill tubs much faster than standard fittings.
Unfortunately, tubs, especially whirlpools, aren’t great for really getting clean. For that, add a separate hand shower controlled by a nearby diverter valve.
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Posted: Sep 14, 2010 | Category: BathRoom Sink Faucets
Don’t worry you needn’t be stuck with that old acoustic ceiling. Here’s a brief survey of the alternatives.
Open it up. If your one-story house has an attic or crawl space above, you may be able to remove ceiling joists or add more widely spaced beams and forgo the ceiling material. Track lights and hanging pendants are useful accompaniments. You’ll need to finish off the underside of the roof decking, either with tongue-and-groove wood planks or with drywall and paint. And, of course, this would be the perfect time to add a skylight.
Add hollow beams. Certain home styles for example, French country incorporate patterned beams and enclosed ceiling bays (usually painted wallboard). The hollow beams are built up from 2-by lumber and molding, and provide a bonus: the inner raceways are efficient spots to hide electrical and plumbing lines or heating ducts.
Lower it. You can remedy a bumpy or worn-out surface, glaring ceiling panels, or a too-tall space in one of two ways. If there is no framework, install horizontal ceiling joists, then apply a wallboard ceiling and finish it as you wish. Over an existing ceiling, you can nail 1-by furring strips, then add wallboard.
Size up the soffits. An open soffit between wall cabinets and ceiling can house up lighting to "lift" a ceiling. Or enclose the area with wallboard or molded plaster, perhaps extending the soffits past the cabinet fronts and adding recessed downlights.
Remember that wood crown or cove moldings can help dress up any ceiling soffit.
Windows & skylights
After years of timidly testing the balance between the need for privacy and the desire for a view, bathrooms are now taking advantage, in earnest, of available light and sights.
Need to add light? Here are four basic strategies for lightening up without baring all:
• Rise above your neighbors. Put¬ting the bath near the top of your house can give you both panorama and privacy.
■ Annex a view and enclose it. Convert a portion of your landscape to create a low-maintenance view garden. Deep overhangs can cut direct glare; an encircling wall can en¬sure privacy.
■ Install an openable skylight. Roof windows let in light and make a space feel roomier. When open, sky¬lights exhaust stale air and moisture.
■ Maximize light and edit the view. You can combine glass in different forms (panels, blocks) and finishes (clear, translucent) to bring in more light and view while still protecting personal privacy. Generally, transparent materials are suitable above chin height of the tallest occupant. But check the heights and locations of neighbors’ windows.
What units are out there? Windows, available in many styles, may be wood, aluminum, vinyl, or steel. Vinyl- or aluminum-clad wood windows and all vinyl windows require little maintenance.
Though you can have a skylight custom-made, there is also a wide range of prefabricated units. Some can be opened, by motor or by hand a big plus for ventilation.
If there’s space between the ceiling and roof, you’ll need a light shaft to direct light to the room below. It may be straight, angled, or splayed.
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Posted: Aug 24, 2010 | Category: BathRoom Sink Faucets
Bathroom wall and ceiling treatments must be able to withstand moisture, heat, and high usage. These surfaces also go a long way toward defining the overall impact of your bath. Below, we survey the options.
Wall coverings
In addition to the shower and tub-surround areas, your bathroom will probably include a good bit of wall space. Here are nine popular treatments.
Paint. Of course, everybody thinks of paint first. But what’s best for the bathroom? Your basic choices are latex and alkyd paint.
Latex is easy to work with, and best of all, you can clean up wet paint with soap and water. Alkyd paint (often called oil base paint) provides high gloss and will hang on a little harder than latex; however, alkyds are harder to apply and require cleanup with mineral spirits. In general, high resin content is the mark of durable, abrasion-resistant, flexible paint the kind you need in a bathroom. Usually, the higher the resin content, the higher the gloss; so look for products labeled gloss or semi gloss if you want a tough, washable finish. An excellent choice for bathroom cabinets and woodwork is interior/ exterior, quick drying alkyd enamel; it has a brilliant, tile like finish that’s extremely durable.
Faux finishing. Faux (literally, false) painting finishes produce the appearance of other patterns or textures. In one version, many closely related pastels are built up in subtle layers with brush strokes, by stippling, or with a sponge. Other faux finishes are bolder including layers of textured paint and/or contrasting colors to mimic anything from traditional wallpaper to modern art.
Ceramic tile. Tough, water-resistant tile is always a good choice for a bathroom, and the range of colors, textures, shapes, and sizes opens up many creative possibilities.
Wall tiles are typically glazed, and offer great variety in color and design. Generally lighter than floor tiles, their relatively light weight is a plus for vertical installation. Ceramic mosaic is one of the most colorful and versatile materials in the tile family. Tiles sold under this name are generally small 2 by 2 inches or less. They come in sheets, mounted on thread mesh or paper backing or joined with silicone rubber. You can install mosaics on curved surfaces, too. Once they’re in place, you grout these sheets like any other wall tiles.
Stone. Marble, slate, limestone, and granite, whether as 8- or 12-inch tiles or wider sheets, can perform a similar role to ceramic tile. Though these natural materials can be costly, there’s no reason to break the bank: a small accent can go a long way. Try a dash of stone along the tub pedestal, along the backsplash, around the shower, or as wainscoting on one prominent wall.
Most stone, especially marble, should be thoroughly sealed for wall use; untreated, it can be stained or eaten away by acids in cleaning supplies or even household water.
Glass block. If you’re looking for some ambient daylight but don’t want to lose your privacy, consider another old timer glass block. It provides a soft, filtered light that complements many bath designs.
You can buy 3- or 4-inch thick square blocks in many sizes; rectangular blocks are available in a more limited selection. Textures range from smooth to wavy, rippled, bubbly, or crosshatched. To locate glass block, look in the yellow pages under Glass Block Structural, Etc. You may be able to special-order blocks through a regular glass dealer.
Wallpaper. A wallpaper for the bathroom should be scrub able, durable, and stain resistant. Solid vinyl wallpapers, which come in a wide variety of colors and textures, fill the bill. New patterns, including some that replicate other surfaces (such as linen), are generally subtle; wallpaper borders add visual punch to ceiling lines and openings. Good ventilation is crucial to keep wallpaper from loosening.
Fabric. Although upholstered walls probably don’t leap to mind, consider them for powder rooms where there’s no shower or tub. Upholstered walls can add a dash of style, and also a measure of soundproofing.
Plaster. The textured, uneven, and slightly rounded edges of plaster give a bathroom a custom, informal look; plaster is especially popular for Southwest theme designs. The only drawback: if the surface is too irregular, it’s hard to keep clean.
Wood. Tongue-and-groove wood paneling natural, stained, bleached, or painted provides a charming accent to country schemes. Wainscoting is most popular, separated from wall¬paper or paint above by the traditional chair rail.
Moldings are back in vogue. Specialty shops are likely to have a wide selection and will often custom-match an old favorite to order.
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Posted: Aug 23, 2009 | Category: BathRoom Sink Faucets
Bathroom Sink Faucets
No longer just a basin and a mirror, the sink area has become a carefully orchestrated environment for grooming and personal care. Layouts with two sinks housed in one continuous vanity, in side-by-side alcoves, or in matching configurations on opposite walls are a common sight. Some bathrooms also include a separate, smaller wash basin in the toilet compartment or makeup area.
Bathroom Sinks faucets have become design accents in their own right a comparatively low-commitment way to add a bit of dash to an otherwise restrained design scheme. (If you later decide you don’t like the boldness, it’s a lot simpler to change a faucet than shower or tub surround.)
Sink options, new & old
Sinks are available in a huge array of styles, shapes, materials, and finishes. You can make the sink stand out or blend its look with that of a period-style tub, shower, or toilet fixture. Whether for an antique or ultramodern design, some sink manufacturers can provide custom colors on special orders.
Deck-mounted sinks. The vanity-bound fixture is still the most practical arrangement. 
You’ll find a wide selection of materials in deck-mounts: vitreous china, fiberglass-reinforced plastic, enameled cast iron, and enameled steel are most common. Fiberglass is lightweight and moderately priced, but tends to scratch and dull. Vitreous china
Bathroom Sink Faucets
(made with clay that’s poured into molds, fired in a kiln, and glazed) is heavy, comes in many colors, and is easy to clean; it also resists scratches, chips, and stains. Enameled cast iron is more expensive and durable than vitreous china or enameled steel, but is very heavy. An enameled steel surface is easy to clean and lighter and less expensive than vitreous china or enameled cast iron but also much less durable.
Brass and copper sinks are strikingly elegant as accents. But they require zealous maintenance, so you may want to reserve them for powder rooms, guest baths, or other low-use areas.
You also have a choice of mounting methods with various deck-mounted models. Self-rimming sinks with molded overlaps are supported by the edge of the countertop cutout; flush deck-mounted sinks have surrounding metal strips to hold the basin to the countertop; unrimmed sinks are recessed under the countertop and held in place by metal clips.
Integral-bowl sinks. A solid-surface countertop can be coupled with a molded, integral sink for a sleek, sculpted look. Sink color can either match the countertop or complement it; for example, you might choose a cream-colored sink below a granite-patterned counter. Edge-banding and other border options abound. Other integral sinks come in synthetic marble, vitreous china, and fiberglass.
A countertop with integral bowl has no joints, so installation and cleaning are easy. The one-piece molded unit sits on top of a vanity or cabinet; predrilled holes are part of the package.
Pedestal sinks. Pedestal sinks are making a big comeback, in a wide range of traditional and modern designs.
Typically of vitreous china, these elegant towers are easy to install and clean around; the pedestal usually hides the plumbing. Some models have old-style vanity legs.
Pedestal sinks are typically among the highest-priced basins. Another disadvantage: there’s no storage space under the basin.
Wall-hung sinks. Like pedestals, wall-hung sinks are enjoying a con-temporary revival.
Materials and styling are along the same lines; in fact, some designs are available in either version.
Wall-hung sinks come with hangers or angle brackets for support. Generally speaking, they are the least expensive and most compact sink options, and relatively easy to install. If you’re putting in a wall-hung model for the first time, plan to tear out part of the wall to add a support ledger.
Faucets
The world of sink faucets is constantly changing, presenting new colors, shapes, styles, and accessories. Finishes include bold enamel, traditional brass, shiny chrome, soft pewter, and elegant gold. You can choose a showstopper in boldest modern or most quaintly antique styling; coordinate with tub and shower fittings; or pick the same handles for all fixtures in the room. You can buy faucets with digital temperature readouts, scald proof models, and spouts that stop the flow when your hand is removed. How about a swiveling European faucet with an adjustable spray and a gum-massage attachment?
Sink faucets are available with single, center-set, or spread-fit controls. A single-control fitting has a combined faucet and lever or knob controlling water flow and temperature. A center-set control has separate hot and cold water controls and a faucet, all mounted on a base. A spread-fit control has separate hot and cold water controls and a faucet, independently mounted. Pop-up or plug stoppers are sold separately or with the faucet and water controls.
Two questions to ask when evaluating clever, streamlined designs: How well could you work the controls with soaped-up hands and sleep-bleared eyes? And how easy would it be to clean or maintain the installation?
Whatever style you choose, most bathroom professionals agree that solid-brass construction is the best way to go. Ceramic- or nylon-disk designs are generally easier to maintain than older washer schemes.
When you select your sink, be sure the holes in it will accommodate the type of faucet you plan to buy, as well as any additional accessories.
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